LEAKOIL Forum

Nice, that is what they were for once upon a time! Fun to use them that way every once in a while... carefully

Rob wrote: Thu Aug 15, 2024 10:22 am Nice, that is what they were for once upon a time! Fun to use them that way every once in a while... carefully

Mine recently brought home an HVAC system for my house...

Ted, you always get work out of your truck.

I'll document here what was done to Marla's truck:

The left RGB was leaking pretty badly- leaving a 4-6" puddle when parked, it was the big freeze plug for accessing the inner wheel bearing that was leaking.

Here's what drives me nuts about whoever installed the tranny:

The RGB bolt lock plates are missing.
They used US lockwashers on metric bolts which were too large.
The lockwashers are too thick, taking away 2-3 bolt threads.
The brake line retainer brackets and grommets are missing, which will cause stress cracking of the brake lines over time.
They didn't clean the grunge from the mating surfaces which will cause things to loosen up.
They used one bolt that was too long, probably bottoming in the RGB without clamping the spring plate.
They used one bolt that had trashed threads on it.

Remove drum, brake cable, and bolts.
Clean grunge from stuff so I can see what I'm working on.
Weld nut to freeze plug.
Rig up some hillbilly tools to pull the plug from the RGB.
Cut the nut from the plug and grind clean.
Reseal with RTV and drive in flush.
Use a smear of RTV on the inside bore of the RGB, which the previous guy didn't do and that's why it leaked.
Clean all rust from mating surfaces.
Install brake line retainer and grommet.

I chased all of the threads, replaced the messed up bolts, and installed the lock tabs and correct wave washer on the front bolts. Install brake line retainers and grommets. All were torqued to spec, 80 ft-lb.

Here's what it's supposed to look like.

RGBs had non-magnetic drain plugs, so I added magnetic drain plugs to them.

Brakes are all new with a minimum of rust, so I cleaned up the rust with sandpaper, bled and adjusted.

Clutch was not worn out but the hub was loose on the disc, and the TOB was worn where the "pegs" meet the clutch fork. It got a new Sachs clutch, heavy duty fork, and I DA'd the flywheel.

Engine may be a T3 or universal case because of the engine number pads and hole for a speed sensor.

Flywheel is lightened, which is counterproductive for a bus. A lightened flywheel is good for a light sports car like a Ghia where you want it to accelerate out of the turns quickly on the track. On a heavier vehicle you want a heavy flywheel to use inertia to help launch the truck.

Trans is a late '66 by the 6v bellhousing (ground out), straight clutch arm, and rubber stops.

Starter is a new autostick unit, keep that in mind if ever replaced, it will need the same thing or an adapter bushing.

Brake lines had no grommets preventing rub-through where they passed through the bulkheads. I installed grommets and rubber hose for rub protection.

Top left engine bolt was missing, I use an Allen head bolt in this location. I also installed flat washers that were missing on the other 3 nuts.

I don't know what's going on with this hillbilly wire on the starter trigger, but it's really crude and not protected. It's the starter trigger so it's only hot a few seconds a day, we'll take care of that another time.


Throttle cable Bowden tube was missing, the replacements are too long, so I shortened one to fit with a new throttle cable.